FROM THE PAPER DESIGN TO THE FIRST FITTING
tAILOR MADE JACKET
5 STEPS FOR A UNIQUE PIECE
THE SARTORIAL PROCESS
THE DRAWING
01.
Where the magic begins
After choosing the fabric together with the customer, the tailor traces, with his chalk, the shape that the jacket will have to take. The essence of Made-to-Measure Craftsmanship rests its foundations precisely in this first phase, where minutiae and attention to detail are the cornerstone for the perfect success of the final work.
the cut
02.
From the fabric to the model
We move on to one of the probably most iconic phases of the Sartorial Process, a moment in which the Tailor holds the scissors and runs through the entire design with great skill and steadfastness, obtaining an ad hoc silhouette for his client. Usually, the tailor's scissors are precious objects handed down for generations and have a great emotional value for the craftsman.
IRONING AND SEWING
03.
The suit takes shape
The shape obtained is adequately ironed and, before being able to put a hand on it again, it must be allowed to cool, to allow the fabric to soften and acquire the typical elasticity of a tailored suit. Only at that point it will be possible to proceed with the basting first, and then with the sewing of the jacket, to allow the customer to try it on during its creation.
04. THE POCKETS AND THE NECK
05. FINISHES
the feather in your cap
see the difference
Both the collar and the lapel are completely hand-quilted. The covering of the neck with the fabric must be performed with the utmost precision to avoid slowness of the neck itself after use. The pockets and the breast pocket are also made strictly by hand and, at the customer's request, the so-called "flap" (the strip of fabric designed to cover the opening of the pocket) can be added, which is not present in the Ceremony Suite.
01. Sleeves, inner lining and buttonholes are the main finishes of a tailored jacket that are performed during the construction process of the suit: the sleeves are tacked to the jacket before the second trial and only after the third trial they are definitively sewn. The inner lining is hand-stitched. Buttonholes are placed on the front of the jacket and on the final section of the sleeves; they are performed by hand using two typical tools, the "cordonetto" and the "virgola".
Trousers
Like the jacket, the design is made based on the customer's measurements and taste. During the client's first fitting, the trousers are fully tacked. Then we move on to machine sewing, while the pockets are totally handmade and can take the shape and position that you prefer.
The three steps that lead to the creation of a tailored trousers
discover the process